Before I discuss what I consider the most important aspect of street photography, I would like to discuss a couple of basic technical items. I generally set my camera to aperture priority, automatic white balance, continuous focus, 51 points (3D tracking) and auto ISO sensitivity control (which varies my ISO as needed to keep the shutter speed at a certain minimum). If the lighting has a lot of variability, I will also set auto backeting (usually three shots—0EV, +1 EV and -1EV). I set my camera to these settings before I start shooting. I think these setting help me get the best exposure automatically so that I can concentrate on the subject. If your camera does not have these exact setting (either because your Nikon model does not have them or you use a different camera manufacture), I suggest that you read your camera manual (this is the strange paper booklet that the manufacturer included with the camera) to determine which settings are best for this type of shooting.
Now the real secret of street photography, you must move. Unfortunately, zoom lenses has taken out (or at least, reduced) the aerobic aspects of street photography. Since I generally like shooting most subjects at focal lengths of 60mm or more, I generally rely on my zoom when I have limited space in which to move.
Dickens on the Strand #4 and #6 were part of 18 shots taken over four minutes and 22 seconds. Below is how I moved around the subjects to get the two photos previously posted (starting at position 1 and moving to position 4), plus the photo shown above. Posting #4 was taken from a low vantage point at position #3 and posting #6 was also taken from a low vantage point at position #4. As I moved around, I notice that I still had a lot of clutter in the background if I photographed the subject from my normal height, so I lowered my shooting position until I got a nice clean background. Being aware of the background is essential when photographing people.
Although today's posting does not have a clean background, I like it because it adds additional context to the photo of the Mad Hatter. I should have taken a little more care in framing the shot to include all of the tube running from the Mad Hatter's mouth.
Dickens on the Strand #4 and #6 were part of 18 shots taken over four minutes and 22 seconds. Below is how I moved around the subjects to get the two photos previously posted (starting at position 1 and moving to position 4), plus the photo shown above. Posting #4 was taken from a low vantage point at position #3 and posting #6 was also taken from a low vantage point at position #4. As I moved around, I notice that I still had a lot of clutter in the background if I photographed the subject from my normal height, so I lowered my shooting position until I got a nice clean background. Being aware of the background is essential when photographing people.
Although today's posting does not have a clean background, I like it because it adds additional context to the photo of the Mad Hatter. I should have taken a little more care in framing the shot to include all of the tube running from the Mad Hatter's mouth.
Thanks Larry. This is more what I wanted. Looking at my Canon's manual I do not see many of the things you listed but they may be under different names. Looking at today's photo, prior photos and the diagram, I can definitely see how the background was achieved. When doing street photography I often stay in one place and keep taking the same photo and then when I see them on the computer I am shocked that they all look the same. Duh.
ReplyDeleteTyler
I also have lead feet. I cannot believe that you really think we should move our feet with all of the technology that Canon builds into their cameras. Good advice that I hope to employ.
ReplyDeleteSid
I do not like the new photo as much as the two you previously presented but its still a striking image. Your description seems a lot to think about.
ReplyDeleteTina